“The great man of oysters.”
– Philip Hone, Mayor
Born to freed black parents in Chincoteague, Virginia in 1791, Thomas Downing grew up harvesting and eating oysters on his family’s coastal land. No one dreamed that he would one day become one of the most celebrated restauranteurs in New York City...and so much more.
It was well known that most New York oyster cellars were run by African Americans, and a majority of registered oystermen were black. So young Downing rented an apartment on 33 Pell Street, bought a small skiff, and began rowing across the Hudson, “tonging” oysters in the Jersey flats, and returning with loads of them to sell. He was described as unusually energetic, and earned a reputation for procuring the finest, fattest oysters.
African American oystermen. Select to enlarge any image. Phone users: finger-zoom or rotate screen.
Downing was one of the first to take the lowly oyster “upmarket”. In 1825 he opened what he called his oyster “refectory” at 5 Broad Street at the corner of Wall Street, the same area where the first oyster cellar had opened in 1763. Surrounded by banks, trading firms, the Customs House and the finest stores, Downing achieved brilliant success, attracting businessmen and politicians by the score. His refectory became “the place to make deals”, one of the city’s first “power restaurants”. Instead of the dank shambles of most oyster cellars, Downing’s was decorated with chandeliers, gilded statues, mirrored arcades, damask curtains and plush carpeting. Men could even bring their wives! Thomas Downing made oyster cellars respectable (even though by law his own family, or any other black person, could not dine there.)
Left: Lower building is 5 Broad Street today. Right: Rare Downing pickled oyster jug. (Copps Island Oysters Museum)
He served oysters raw, fried, steamed, and roasted on a large gridiron. His specialty was turkey stuffed with oysters. His famed oyster stew was based on an ancient recipe, still served today at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, as well as The National Museum of African American History and Culture. His refectory was so successful that he soon expanded it to include 3 and 7 Broad Street. Downing became the foremost caterer in New York, supplying food to the most auspicious events, including the famous 1842 “Boz Ball” celebrating Charles Dickens’ visit, one of the most lavish affairs the city had ever seen. Downing shipped his oysters around the world; Queen Victoria loved his oysters so much she sent him a gold chronometer watch, which he treasured.
Chef preparing oyster stew at the Grand Central Oyster Bar.
Downing was described as “a good listener with a courtly manner”. He was popular with the “movers and shakers” of his day, and learned the many secrets of Wall Street and City Hall. Although he was highly esteemed, famous and wealthy, he still searched the harbor at night, finding the best oysters for his appreciative customers.
Besides being “the great man of oysters”, Downing was an ardent abolitionist. While wealthy denizens feasted above, the cellars beneath his refectory were one of the most important stops on the Underground Railway; people escaping bondage could always find refuge there. Downing’s son George, also an abolitionist, led fugitive slaves to the basement, protecting them from bounty hunters roaming the streets in search of runaways. Thomas Downing also supported the African Free School, where his 5 children were educated, and was a founder of the all-Black Anti-Slavery Society. In 1838, after a trolley driver beat him up for refusing to get off, he sued the trolley system. It took 20 years, but the victory was won in 1855...a century before Rosa Parks helped launch the Montgomery bus boycott.
Because of his race, Downing was barred from citizenship his entire life...almost. The Civil Rights Act of 1866 was passed by Congress and became law on the day before he died. Thomas Downing, successful entrepreneur, famed culinary artist, and human rights activist was a legal citizen for only one day...his last.